Choriaster Granulatus (Sea Starfish)

The Granulated Seastar (Choriaster granulatus) is a large seastar that is the only species within its genus Choriaster and belongs to the Oreasteridae family. This species occurs in the waters of the Indo-Pacific region and is also found in the northern tropical waters of Australia. It is found along the Great Barrier Reef off the waters of Queensland. This species also occurs in the waters of the Red Sea, Vanuatu and Fiji. This species can be easily recognised by its large size and shape and is generally a pale pink colour. It is known to feed on algae and detritus and occurs on rubble slopes and on coral reefs. It is found in shallow waters to depths of 40 metres. The Giant Triton shell (Charonia tritonis is known to feed on this species. The Granulated Seastar (Choriaster granulatus) has a maximum arm radius of approximately 27 cm.

Linckia Laevigata (Blue Starfish)

The Blue Starfish, also known as the Comet Sea Star, Blue Sea Star, or Blue Linckia Sea Star, is found in the sunny areas of the reef and reef fringe, constantly foraging for food. It has a bright blue body, sometimes with red or purplish spots.
In an aquarium setting, it prefers a well-lit sandy or coral rubble substrate with many rocky hiding places. As a juvenile (when it has a blue-green coloration), it spends most of the day hiding in small caves or overhangs. As larger adults, it can be seen anchored to the rocks or glass, waving one or two arms in the water, searching for small, free-floating microbes. The Blue Starfish is generally solitary, but it will tolerate other starfish and amiable fish in the aquarium.
The Blue Starfish is very intolerant of sudden changes in oxygen levels, salinity and pH of the water, and cannot tolerate copper-based medications. It should never be exposed to air while handling, and should be carefully monitored for the presence of a small parasitic snail, Thyca crystallina.
In the wild, the Blue Starfish is capable of regenerating a new starfish from almost any portion of its body that might break off. In the home aquarium, this is far less likely.
In the aquarium, small pieces of clam meat or tablets can be placed under the starfish.

Hippocampus Kuda (Spotted Sea Horse)

This is a wide-ranging Indo-Pacific seahorse that inhabits waters from Indonesia to the Philippines, Pakistan and India to southern Japan, Hawaii, and the Society Islands, but it might be possible that variations of this species may also reside in other areas outside of the Indo-Pacific region.

To almost six inches.

H. kuda seahorses range in color from black to orange and yellow. Black individuals often have silvery stripes or other markings on the body, and sometimes unique yellow individuals can be dotted with red spots. A protective trait that this and many other seahorses have is the ability to change color to match into their surroundings. It is not unusual for them to take on the coloration of a favorite object one has decided to adopt as a hiding place. They prefer stationary perches they can wrap their tails around, and should not be kept with anemones or corals that possess large stinging tentacles.

Seahorses should be fed live or (if they will take it) vitamin enriched frozen or freeze-dried mysid shrimp. Seahorses should be fed several times per day with food available for 20 to 30 minutes per feeding. Wild caught Seahorses may be slow to accept frozen or freeze-dried mysid shrimp as food to begin with and may have to be fed live foods until they are weaned onto prepared foods. Tank raised Seahorses are normally trained to accept frozen or freeze-dried mysid shrimp at an early age and will make the transition to your tank much more easily than wild caught.

Chrysiptera Leucopoma (Surge Demoiselle)

This Damsel is aggressive. Surge Damselfish can grow up to 8 cm what is approximately 3 inches. So 1 specimen requires at least 960cm2 of water surface what is approximately 148 square inch. We recommend you to keep have at least 700 Litres (185 US Gallons).It is easy to keep the Surge Damselfish. The specific gravity (SG) should be between 1,020 and 1,025, the temperature between 23°C (73.4°F) and 26°C (78.8°F). The pH level should vary between 8.0 and 8.3 what it in fish tanks which are medium. Medium aquariums have at least 113 Litres (30 US Gallons). Large aquariums have at least 265 Litres (70 US Gallons). Very large aquariums is usual for marine fish.

Abudefduf Bengalensis (Narrow Banded Sergeant Major)

The Narrow-Banded Sergeant Major is a white fish with six or seven narrow black bands on the body. The tail has rounded lobes. They are seen as individuals or in small groups.

The Narrow-Banded Sergeant Major is found in tropical waters of the western Pacific from India to the Philippines and south to Australia. In Australia it is found along north-western coast of Western Australia, Northern Territory, Queensland, and south to central New South Wales coast.

Abudefduf Saxatilis (Sergeant Major)

The sergeant major was first referred to as Abudefduf saxatilis by Carl Linnaeus (1758). The scientific name abudefduf translates as "father", saxa as "living among rocks", and tilus as "tile-like in color". It is called father due to its bossy, aggressive behavior towards other inhabitants on the reef. Synonyms include A. marginatus Bloch 1787, Chaetodon marginatus Bloch 1787, Chaetodon mauritii Bloch 1787, Glyphisodon moucharra Lacepede 1802, Chaetodon sargoides Lacepede 1802, Glyphisodon biniar Montrouzier 1857, Apogon quinquevittatus Blyth 1858, and Abudefduf ascensionis Fowler 1919.
English language common names are sergeant major, damsel fish, five finger, and pilotfish. This fish gets its common name "sergeant major" from the stripes that resemble the traditional insignia of the military rank. Other common names include asan (Malay), badret (Marshallese), bakej (Marshallese), bitoke (Marshallese), burrinho (Creole /Portuguese), camiseta (Portuguese), castagnole (French), castanheta (Portuguese), chauffet soleil (French), ega'aisse (Arabic), garbik pasiasty (Polish), isdang san ramon (Visayan), kalli (Malayalam), laslas (Samal), limoulaang (Carolinian), makhrev (Arabic), mamo (Tahitian), patima-mashowera (Swahili), pesce damigella (Italian), petaca rayada (Spanish), pintano (Spanish), sargento (Portuguese), sergent major(French), shibubu (Arabic), and urel (Marshallese).
The sergeant major is a small, rounded fish with the body compressed laterally. It has a single nostril on each side of the snout, rather than two as in the butterflyfishes and angelfishes. The mouth is small and terminal. This fish is often confused with Abudefduf taurus, the night sergeant. However, the vertical bars of the sergeant major are more pronounced and it has a slimmer body. There is also much less distance between the eye and the upper margin of the mouth in A. saxatilis than in A. taurus.

Chaetodon Lineolatus (Lined Butterfly Fish)

One of the larger of the butterfly fish species, the Lined Butterflyfish can get up to 12 inches (32 cm) in size. They are found near areas of heavy coral growth on reef slopes and sometimes travel in groups, pairs and in singles. If you can even find them in your local shop (rarely caught for the hobby), you may want to pass on this butterfly fish. Their potential adult size and their eating habits would keep them out of most aquarium setups. The lined butterflyfish is a coral eater, feasting on soft and stony coral polyps and mushroom anemones.
Acquiring a good specimen is usually hit or miss and some recommend getting smaller sized specimens because they should acclimate more easily. Frequent small feedings several times a day may be required and once they are acclimated they should do well in the proper setup.
Obviously, feeding them coral polyps could get rather expensive. Try to offer a varied diet of meaty foods such as mysis, brine shrimp, carnivorous frozen marine foods, etc. A large tank (at least 150 gallons) is needed given their potential adult size.
If you have the right setup, this could be a nice addition to your live rock only tank with maybe faux corals used as decorations.

Chaetodon Octofasciatus (Eight Banded Butterfly Fish)

The Eight-banded Butterflyfish or eightband butterflyfish (Chaetodon octofasciatus), is a species of butterflyfish (family Chaetodontidae). It is found in the Pacific Ocean from Indonesia and the Philippines via Papua New Guinea and the Great Barrier Reef to the Solomon Islands, Palau, and north to China; it extends into the Indian Ocean at least to the Maldives, India and Sri Lanka.
This small butterflyfish grows to a maximum of 12 cm long (nearly 5 in). Its body is white, shading into yellowish on the belly. It has 7 black vertical stripes over head and sides and one centrally on the snout. The third line extends onto the ventral fins. There is a strong black margin on the aft dorsal and anal fins.
It is a close relative of the Golden Butterflyfish (C. aureofasciatus) and less close to Rainford's Butterflyfish (C. rainfordi). Probably including the Three-striped Butterflyfish (C. tricinctus) also, these diverse but always high-bodied species make up the subgenus Discochaetodon, of which C. octofasciatus is the type species. They appear to be close relatives of the subgenus Tetrachaetodon which includes for example the Mirror Butterflyfish (C. speculum) and together with these would probably go in Megaprotodon if Chaetodon is split up. The Eight-banded Butterflyfish is found at depths between 3 and 20 m in coral reefs. Adults swim in pairs in coral-rich areas of sheltered inshore and lagoon reefs; juveniles can often be seen in groups among Acropora corals. This species feeds exclusively on coral polyps.

Chaetodon Fasciatus (Diagonal Lined Butterfly Fish)

The Diagonal Butterflyfish (Chaetodon fasciatus), also known as the Red Sea Raccoon Butterflyfish, is a species of butterflyfish (family Chaetodontidae). It is found in the Red Sea only.
They have a yellow body with 11 diagonal stripes and reach a maximum length of 22 cm (c.9 in). In their native habitat, they swim over and around corals, on which they also feed.
It belongs to the large subgenus Rabdophorus which might warrant recognition as a distinct genus. In this group, its closest relative is probably the very similar common Raccoon Butterflyfish (C. lunula). Other close relatives appear to be the Black Butterflyfish (C. flavirostris), Philippine Butterflyfish (C. adiergastos), and perhaps also the unusual Red-tailed Butterflyfish (C. collare). Although the coloration of this group varies quite a lot, they are all largish butterflyfishes with an oval outline, and most have a pattern of ascending oblique stripes on the flanks. Except in the Red-tailed Butterflyfish, there is at least a vestigial form of the "raccoon" mask, with a white space between the dark crown and eye areas.

Chaetodon Melannotus (Black Back Butterfly Fish)

Black Back Butterflyfish, Chaetodon melannotus, is often found living on or around the reefs of the Indian and Pacific Oceans as well as the Red Sea. Members of the genus Chaetodon make gorgeous inhabitants of a fish only aquarium. Soft Corals and most Invertebrates should do fine with the Butterflyfish, but it may likely decimate Stony Corals, as they are a part of its natural diet. Peaceful or non-aggressive tankmates are recommended to reduce stress on the Butterfly. When Butterflyfish are first introduced to the aquarium, they may refuse to eat. Should the fish continue this behavior for three or more days, live food should be offered (if not from the beginning). Food soaked in a garlic product will often entice the Butterfly to eat. Another useful method to encourage some Butterflyfish to eat is to place their food inside of a coral skeleton. Groupings of Butterflyfish can be introduced simultaneously in the same aquarium, making a stunning display. It is best to make sure that the fish have plenty of aquarium space each when adding a group. Live Rock and multiple places to hide also helps to reduce stress in a group introduction situation.

Amphiprion Latezonatus (Wide Band Anemone Fish)

Amphiprion latezonatus Waite 1900, the Wide-Band Anemonefish. Dark brown bodied, with three (especially the middle) wide white body bars. Found only off Lord Howe Island and the coast near the Queensland-NSW border. This one photographed at the Birch Aquarium, San Diego. To five inches total length.
In recognition of Australia Day Reef Builders is featuring a few stunning reef animals which live only in the land down under. The Wide Band Anemonefish, Amphiprion latezonatus,is a rare clownfishwhich is endemic to Australia. Also known as the Blue Lip Clownfish, this seldom seens species is more often found in cooler water. The Wide Band Anemonefish is most similar to saddle back clownfish, Amphiprion polymnus and itrequires special handling to acclimate to captivity. Compared to another Australian clownfish, the Blue Lip is “affordable” at only~$300 a piece to American Reefers. Enjoy the video above which was made at the Dallas World Aquarium, quite the treasure trove of rare fish pairs. More to come for Australia Day and Dallas World Aquarium. And if you’re wondering what our Aussie Reefcomradesare up to, might we suggest you drop in on Ozreef or their forum, Reefing the Australian Way.

Dendrochirus Zebra (Zebra Lion Fish)

Dendrochirus zebra is known as the Zebra Lionfish or Dwarf Lionfish. It has red, white, and black vertical stripes along the body; large, fan-like pectoral fins; and tall, quill-like dorsal fins.
A 30 gallon or larger aquarium with numerous hiding places is suitable. It will hide while acclimating to its new environment. The top spines are venomous, causing reactions similar to a bee sting. To treat the sting, soak the affected area in hot water (100-110º F).
When first introduced into the aquarium, live saltwater feeder shrimp should be used to entice this fish to eat. The Dwarf Lionfish diet consists of meaty foods such as live shrimp (including ornamental shrimp), live fish, and sometimes, crustacean flesh.

Genicanthus Melanospilus (Blackspot Angel Fish)

With a highly-flared tail, the Swallowtail Angelfish is also referred to as the Blackspot Angelfish, Blackspot Lyretail Angelfish, and Spotbreast Angelfish. The Blackspot Angelfish is one of the few angelfish to exhibit dramatic sexual dimorphism. The female is yellow dorsally, and light blue ventrally. The caudal fin is marine-blue highlighted by a dark, blue-black edging on the top and bottom. The male is a pale yellow, with multiple thin, dark, vertical stripes.
A minimum of a 100-gallon tank or larger with lots of hiding places and live rock for grazing will offer an environment in which to thrive. An exception to most angelfish, the Blackspot Angelfish will make a good reef dweller, and will not nip at stony and soft corals (sessile invertebrates). It is also more peaceful and may be kept as a mated pair, or in schools.
The diet of the Blackspot Angelfish should include Spirulina, marine algae, high-quality angelfish preparations, and finely shaved mysid or frozen shrimp.

Chaetodon Miliaris (Lemon Butterfly)

Lemon Butterfly Fish - Chaetodon miliaris: The Lemon Butterflyfish, also known as the Milletseed Butterflyfish or Millet Butterflyfish, is mainly yellow with many dark spots on its sides forming vertical stripes. It has a black bar through the eyes and its fins are yellow. Lemon butterfly fish is a common inshore species found throughout the Hawaiian islands. This is one of the easiest to keep among butterflies. Like all butterflies, it should be kept with peaceful tankmates and provide it a varied diet. Also like any butterfly, if it is picked on initially or feels a threat from tankmates, it may refuse to feed. They're pale yellow with a pattern of vertical dotted lines on the body. Their yellow color can vary greatly depending on their environment. It tends to accept most aquarium foods, as long as it is not bothered by belligerent tankmates. More than one can be kept per tank. Add them simultaneously. Provide it with a varied diet and plenty of swimming room. Grows to about 6".
Mainly a feeder on zooplankton, cleaner as a juvenile. Hawaiian endemic species.
Not reef safe as it is know to pick at coral polyps, fanworms and feather dusters.

Chrysiptera Hemicyanea (Bicolor Damsel)

The Half-blue Damselfish, also known as the Azure Damselfish, is a two-tone, darting marine fish. The front portion of the body is bright blue. The posterior portion, anal fin, and tail are yellow. There is a species variation in the amount of yellow on the body of the fish. (Some call C. parasema the Azure Damselfish, however, in the aquarium trade, the Azure Damselfish is considered to be C. hemicyanea.)
A 50 gallon or larger aquarium is suitable for a small group of Half-blue Damselfish.
In the aquarium, the Half-blue Damselfish can be fed a varied diet of meaty items, vitamin-enriched shrimp, herbivore flakes, and frozen preparations.

Chrysiptera Cyanea (Blue Devil Damsel)

The Blue Damselfish, also known as the Blue Devil Damselfish, is an extremely popular marine fish because it is readily available and because it is very hardy. Although we don't recommend it, many hobbyists use this fish to cycle new saltwater tanks. There are better, more humane ways to cycle a tank such as using live rock to cycle your saltwater aquarium.
They get the nick name Blue Devil because of their personality. They can be very belligerent with other fish in the tank, especially new arrivals. They are very bold and can hold their own with larger fish and may even go after your hand if it approaches their territory. They didn't get the memo about them only being a few inches in size. We'll call it the mighty mouse syndrome.
As mentioned previously, Blue Damsel fish will develop their own territory in the tank. Having live rock in your aquarium will help make them comfortable and it will provide them with hiding places. You can get away with keeping multiple Blue Damselfish in the same tank if you introduce them at the same time. Because of their "anger management" issues it is a good idea to introduce them last into your setup.
Blue Damselfish are not very picky when it comes to fish food and should accept most foods that you give them. Try to give them a varied diet of live, frozen, freeze-dried and vitamin-enriched flake foods.
They seem to be very resistant to most saltwater fish disease but you still need to take the proper pre-cautions and use a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank. After they've been in quarantine for two weeks or so and you notice no signs of illness you can acclimate them into your display tank.

Gomphosus Varius (Bird Wrasse)

The most unique aspect about the Bird Wrasse is its elongated beak which is used to catch long, skinny prey and hold it captive while breaking it up into bite-size pieces. The female is brownish black, and the male is variations of green. For this reason the male is often called the Green Bird Wrasse, and the female, the Black or Brown Bird Wrasse.
A 125 gallon or larger aquarium with large amounts of live rock which furnish food and hiding places provides a good environment. Because the Bird Wrasse is a "jumper," a tight-fitting lid on the tank is necessary. If a pair of Bird Wrasse are to be included in a tank, the female should be introduced first.
The Bird Wrasse diet should include vitamin enriched frozen mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched frozen brine shrimp, and other meaty foods along with a high quality marine flake and marine pellet food.

Zanclus Canescens (Moorish Idol)

This is the infamous Moorish Idol. Here we present one of the most difficult species of fish to keep and raise in captivity. Their popularity increased with the release of the kid's movie "Finding Nemo" but as most hobbyists soon found out, this saltwater fish is very tough to acclimate and keep. Long term survivability of this species in home aquariums is rare.
This fish is colored with white, yellow and black vertical body markings. They are frequently found schooling along the reef and provided that you have a large enough tank, you may be able to keep multiples in your saltwater aquarium.
It is a very finicky eater and to make matters worse, their protruding mouths are sometimes damaged during collection and transport. Another good reason to use the quarantine tank when you first get them is to get them eating without any competition. In the ocean they graze on marine algea and sponges. Having copious amounts of live rock in your tank will provide grazing opportunities in between meals. Try to give them a varied diet of live or frozen marine fish foods.
They can come down with most saltwater fish diseases especially if you're having difficulty getting them to eat. Therefore, use of a quarantine tank with this fish is a must. Keep them in quarantine for at least a few weeks, but at least as long as it takes for them to start eating.
They are true beauties though and if you consider yourself an expert in marine aquarium keeping you may want to try this elegant and delicate fish. Don't cut any corners with these fish and be sure to take your time while acclimating them to your tank. Give them optimal water conditions and please, don't even think about adding them to anything but an established tank after the recommended quarantine period. For most hobbyists, the Moorish Idol is one fish that is best left on the reef for now.

Acanthurus Leucosternon (Powder Blue Tang)

A true beauty, The Powder Blue Tang is sought after by most saltwater aquarium keepers due to it's remarkable colors. From the yellow dorsal fin to its dark colored face and powder blue body, this fish is something to behold. Be prepared to spend some serious jack on this fish though. They usually run anywhere from $60 to over $100 depending on the size of the fish. As well as being beautiful, they are also quite finicky and can be very difficult to keep for even the advanced saltwater aquarium keepers.
They are notorious for getting ich (cryptocaryon) and velvet usually due to the fact that they don't transport well. Let them sit in the dealers tank for several weeks and ask to watch them eat before laying down your hard earned cash for one of these tangs. Inspect them closely for any signs of ich or velvet and make sure they are actively swimming.
If all goes well at the fish store, once you bring them home you'll want to slowly drip acclimate them to your quarantine tank's water. It should go without saying that a quarantine is not optional with this fish. Tangs in general and the Powder Blue Tang especially are susceptible to marine ich, which means that it's a good idea to house your new fish in a quarantine tank for several weeks before introducing them into your display tank. It can be a really good idea to get some cleaner shrimps too. The skunk cleaner shrimp does a good job.
The may be finicky when it comes to food and you'll want to provide plenty of algae grazing opportunities and also supplement their diet with dried algae using a veggie clip. Leave the dried seaweed in the tank for prolonged periods when they are first introduced. They might accept flakes and pellets and should go after frozen and live foods. We feel that live rock is absolutely needed when keeping this fish because they like to pick at algae on a nearly continuous basis during the daytime hours. It may also be a good idea to let some algae grow on one of the side panels of the tank, just in case.
Like all Tangs, the Powder Blue needs highly oxygenated water. You can achieve this using multiple power heads. Watch the tank temperature though and remove a powerhead if the aquarium water temperature gets too high. They will also appreciate high water flow throughout the aquarium and they need a large tank to allow for large swimming lanes. They are quite fast swimmers.
This can be a very difficult fish to keep and we strongly urge you to research this fish fully before acquiring one. We would recommend this fish only to advanced saltwater hobbyists with a large tank that is well established and stocked with plenty of live rock, high aeration and high water flows.

Chaetodon Baronessa (Triangular Butterfly Fish)

The Chevron Butterflyfish is one of the more elongate butterflyfish in the genus. Though it is occasionally available and is reasonably priced, it is one of the most difficult butterflyfish to keep in a captive environment. In their natural environment they are obligatory coral eaters, meaning this is where they get all of their nutrition. This specialized diet is difficult to reproduce in the aquarium and though some will accept substitute foods such as brine and mysid shrimps, they will subsist only for a short period of time without their necessary nutrients.
Fortunately there are species that are quite similar, and some of these are easier to keep. Be sure to learn about any butterflyfish species that you are considering. Find out if it can be maintained in captivity and what its needs are.
According to Burgess (1978) this species is closely allied to the similarly colored chevrons including the Asian Butterflyfish C. argentatus, Seychelles Butterflyfish C. madagaskariensis, Merten's Butterflyfish C. mertenssii, Philippine Chevron Butterflyfish C. xanthurus and Eritrean Butterflyfish C. paucifasciatus (subgenus Rhombochaetodon). It is also closely allied with those having deeper bodies including the Eastern Triangular Butterflyfish C. baronessa, Hooded Butterflyfish C. larvatus, and Triangle Butterflyfish C. triangulum (subgenus Gonochaetodon).

Chaetodon Auriga (Threadfin Butterfly Fish)

The Auriga Butterflyfish, also known as the Threadfin Butterflyfish, is one of the more popular and readily available butterflyfish. Generally a hardy species, in the wild it is found on inner and outer reef slopes. As with many fish, the Threadfin Butterfly's color and markings can vary with the region of origin. Red Sea specimens tend to lose the eyespot (false eye to confuse predators) on the dorsal fin.
The Auriga Butterflyfish is quite shy and should be provided multiple hiding places. It is safe to keep it in a live rock-only tank, although it will pick at the rock.
The Auriga Butterflyfish's diet should primarily consist of plankton frozen, freeze-dried, fresh or flake food is readily accepted. Also provide regular vegetable food source and vitamin-boosting supplements.

Heniochus Acuminatus (Longfin Banner Fish)

The Heniochus species are often lumped in with the Buttefly fishes but the Heniochus species are usually much easier to care for than most of the butterfly species. We too have grouped them in with the butterfly species for convenience. The Longfin Bannerfish is also known as the "Poor Man's Moorish Idol" since it sort of resembles the Moorish Idol but the bannerfish is better suited to aquarium life. They are striped white and black with yellow dorsal and caudal fins along with the signature long white banner fin that can extend out past the caudal fin (tail fin). The body shape of this fish reminds us a little of the freshwater angelfish.
The Heniochus acuminatus and the Heniochus diphreutes are extremely similar looking and it can be difficult to determine the difference in adolescents. They H. diphreutes has more of a stub mouth and a more rounded anal fin. In the H. acuminatus the anal fin forms more of an angle at the tip.
It is possible to keep multiples in the same tank. In the ocean they form small schools and pairs. They do need a larger tank when keeping multiples given their adult size and their need for adequate swimming space. They are quite passive and rarely bother tank mates. They may get bullied by larger fish species such as tangs and triggers.
Assuming that you've picked out a good specimen with no visible signs of illness or disease, they should easily acclimate to your tank. They are not at all picky (usually) about the foods they are given and should eat most fish foods presented to them. Get and use a good flake food and supplement with fresh and frozen foods. If you do get one that is finicky, try the frozen brine shrimp cubes (thawed first) and slowly get them on flakes. The live rock in your tank can provide places of shelter and can also be a food source that the Longfin Bannerfish may pick at in between meals

Chelmon Rostratus (Copper Banded Butterfly Fish)

The Copperbanded Butterfly Fish is one of the more difficult marine fish to keep in the home aquarium and is definitely not recommended for a saltwater beginner. Only introduce one to a long established tank (6 months or more) with peaceful tank mates. If you have a new tank and it is still going through the aquarium nitrogen cycle, you can kiss this baby good bye. Copperband Butterfly Fish are very delicate and it can be very difficult to get them eating. You may need to experiment with various live foods, including brine and mysis shrimp. Some hobbyists have reported success using fresh clams on the half shell placed in the bottom of the tank to get them to start eating.
Physically, the Copperbanded Butterfly Fish is a very beautiful white with copper bands running vertically on the sides of the body. They have a "false eye" towards the back of the dorsal fin and can get up to about 8 inches (20 cm). They should play nicely with other, peaceful tank mates but will not tolerate other butterfly fish in the same tank.
Since they are so delicate they come down with the typical saltwater fish diseases and you need to take proper pre-cautions by using a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank. Take your time while acclimating them to the tank. Keep your Copperbanded Butterflyfish in the hospital tank for two weeks or so and watch for obvious saltwater diseases, like marine ich. This will also give them time to recuperate from transport and it may be easier to get your Copperbanded Butterfly eating without competition from other tank mates.

Pomacentrus Amboinensis (Yellow Damsel)

The Yellow Damselfish, also known as the Golden Damselfish, has lemon yellow coloring highlighted by upper and lower racing stripes, sometimes of neon blue. As it matures, the colors will fade and it will become more aggressive.

The Yellow Damselfish species is easily recognised by the golden-yellow colour on the body and the small blue to purple spots that can be found on the face around the eyes and mouth. It can be found living on coral reefs in association with gorgonian fans and black coral trees as it shelters in their branches for protection. They are generally seen to be solitary however they may be encountered in small aggregations feeding on zooplankton a few metres above the bottom. It is generally found at depths from 10 to 45 metres. The Yellow Damselfish grows to a maximum length of approximately 12cm.

Like other damselfish, the Yellow Damselfish are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Basslets, Blennies, Boxfish, Clownfish, Goatfish, Gobies, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Tangs & Surgeons and Wrasse.

The Yellow Damselfish are not compatible with Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

The Yellow Damselfish can be kept in temperatures between 72 and 78 degrees. The pH should be 8.4, with specific gravity between 1.020 and 1.025 unless there are invertebrates in the aquarium in which case the lower limit should be 1.022. Water quality should remain high.

Chaetodon Falcula (Saddled Butterfly)

The Falcula Butterflyfish, also known as the Sickle Butterflyfish, is mostly white becoming yellow dorsally. It has a series of narrow black stripes on its sides, two patches of black on the dorsal side, and a black eye band.

A 100 gallon or larger fish-only aquarium with other butterflyfish is a good environment. The Falcula Butterflyfish will eat anemones, hard corals, and mushroom anemones causing problems in a reef aquarium.

It should be fed a variety of meaty foods, crustacean flesh, mysid shrimp, frozen preparations, with an occasional anemone as a treat.

Amphiprion Clarkii (Clarkii)

The Clarkii clownfish is one of the hardiest and friendliest clownfish species available in the aquarium trade. You can usually find both tank bred and wild caught specimens in the trade. Tank breed specimens are to be preferred if you have the choice as they are hardier and don't strain the wild populations. The Clarkii clownfish is the most commonly bred clownfish in the USA. It is native to the Indo Pacific Ocean.

The Clarkii clownfish has a higher body than many other species of clownfish. The body is yellow to orange with vertical white stripes.

Like most other clownfish the Clarkii clownfish doesn't need to be kept with an anemone in the aquarium, but prefers having one. The Clarkii clownfish accepts a long row of different anemones including Sebae anemone (hence it´s other name Sebae Clownfish), carpet anemones, bubble tip anemones and long tentacle anemones. It usually also accepts corals as hosts.

This species is reef safe and more than one Clarkii clownfish can be kept in the same aquarium. The Clarkii clownfish can however be aggressive toward other clownish. Clarkii clownfish is best kept with other small and friendly reef safe fish and invertebrates. Do not keep with small shrimps as they might get eaten.

Amphiprion Frenatus (Tomato)

The Tomato Clownfish is one of 27 known Clownfish species. Its scientific name is Amphiprion frenatus and it is also commonly known as Tomato Anemonefish. The Tomato Clowfish belongs to the subfamily Amphiprioninae in the family Pomacentridae. Clownfish co-exists with anemones in the wild and can shelter from predators near the anemone without being stung or eaten. All the clownfish species are very colourful and they are immediately spotted and subsequently eaten by other fish if they leave their protecting anemone. The female Tomato Clownfish is significantly bigger than the male Tomato Clownfish and is blackish on the sides of the body, while the snout, belly and breast are red. The male is without this blackish colouration; his entire body is red and he has one single white head bar. A young Tomato Clownfish has 2-3 white bars.

Wild Tomato Clownfish is found in the Western Pacific. They are popular in salt water reef aquariums and will typically reach a length up to 5.5 inches. You will need at least a 20 gallon aquarium to house your Tomato Clownfish in, and the aquarium must be filled with lots of hiding places. Live rock growth is also advisable, since the Tomato Clownfish likes to graze. Wild Tomato Clownfish will try to find an anemone belonging to the species Heteractis crispa or Entacmaea quadricolor. Anemones can be quite difficult to keep alive in the aquarium, and your Tomato Clownfish will survive without one since you can keep the aquarium free from predators. If you give your Tomato Clownfish a new anemone from a new species, it will take several days before the fish has grown accustomed to the anemone. If you give your Tomato Clownfish a new anemone from the same species as the fish is already familiar with, no such adjustment period will be required. Keep in mind that some anemone species are unsuitable for Clownfish and will sting and injure the fish.

Tomato Clownfish can show some aggressive behaviours when it reaches maturity, especially towards other Clownfish. It is recommended to keep this fish alone or in mated couples. The Tomato Clownfish is an omnivore opportunist and will usually show a healthy appetite when kept in an aquarium. Provide your Tomato Clownfish with a varied and nutritious diet that includes meaty food types as well as some algae or algae based food. A high quality flake food designed for omnivore fish can be a good base. Feed your Tomato Clownfish 2-3 times a day.

Dascyllus Aruanus (Humbug Damsel)

The Three Striped Damselfish, also known as the 3-Stripe Damselfish, White-tailed Damselfish, or Humbug Dascyllus, is a popular fish. Three bold black bands are separated by two white bands with a smaller bar of white to offset the tail.

A 30 gallon or larger aquarium is suitable with plenty of hiding places. Due to its aggressive behavior as an adult, it will do well with other moderately aggressive fish in a community tank. It will not harm invertebrates or disturb the tank setting.

It will need a diet of meaty items, herbivore preparations, and flaked foods.

Coris Gaimard Africana (Red Coris)

The Red Coris, also known as the Clown Wrasse, Red Labrid, or Yellowtail Coris, can be found on almost every reef in the Indo-Pacific and Hawaiian Region, and extends all the way into the Red Sea. Adult specimens in the wild can easily grow to a foot, but in an aquarium, they rarely exceed 6-8 inches. The juvenile and adult appearances vary greatly. As a youth, the body color is orange with white tiger stripes or spots across the back. The stripes and fins are outlined in black. In adulthood, the body takes on a speckled blue coloration, the fins are decorated with yellows, reds, and blues, and the face is orange with green stripes. The male has a light green stripe on the body, just above the anal fin.

The Red Coris requires a 100 gallon or larger aquarium with a sandy bottom into which it will burrow to sleep, or if it is threatened. Do not attempt to keep the Red Coris on crushed coral or similar substrate as they have a poor survival rate on such substrates. When very small, Red Coris are safe with almost any fish that will not eat them, but as they grow, they can become destructive. They should not be kept with invertebrates.

The Red Coris feeds mostly on shelled mollusks in the wild including hermit crabs, urchins, crabs, and occasionally tunicates. Aquarium specimens should have meaty items, vitamin-enriched shrimp, and brine shrimp three times daily.

Siganidae (Rabbit Fish)

The Rabbitfishes that we will focus on in this article are found in the family Siganidae in the order Perciformes. The fishes in the order Chimaeriformes are also known as rabbitfishes, but this article is not about them.

The rabbitfishes of the family Siganidae are called rabbitfishes since their mouth look a bit like the nose and mouth of a rabbit. Rabbitfishes have large dark eyes and well-developed dorsal and anal fin spines. The spines are venomous so you have to be careful when handling a rabbitfish. The largest rabbit fishes can be up to 40 cm (almost 16 inches) in length. All species of rabbitfish are pelagic spawners.

There are currently 25 described species of rabbitfish and some of them have been successfully kept in marine aquariums. The colourful ones are also the most popular ones in the aquarium trade. The rabbitfish is known for its peaceful temperament. Some form schools while others prefer a more solitary life among the corals. It is important to research the preferences of your particular species before your purchase rabbitfish for your aquarium.

Rabbitfish are found in saltwater and brackish water. They inhabit shallow lagoons in the Indo-Pacific and in the eastern parts of the Mediterranean. They are day active and rests during the dark hours. Just like a rabbit, the rabbit fish is an herbivore creature. Instead of carrots, it feeds on benthic algae. It is important to provide your rabbitfish with a varied diet in the aquarium, e.g. algae based foods combined with various fresh vegetables. Natural algae growth is a big plus since it allows the rabbitfish to carry out its natural behaviour.

Platax Pinnatus (Long Fin Bat Fish)

Pinnatus Batfish are darkish brown with bright orange pin striping outlining its entire body. They have a narrow vertical band behind the eye and a wider band behind the pectoral fin, both of which become periodically translucent. It is said that in the wild they can reach a length of three feet. This species is secretive in the wild, found hiding in wrecks and other dark spots, and should be left there. Requires experienced hobbyist. Definitely one of the most beautiful species when young, the Pinnatus Batfish also turns to a much duller coloration as an adult. This species is very difficult to acclimate to a captive diet, and usually does not do well in captivity at all. If one purchases this species it is also recommended to be kept in a peaceful community aquarium.

Pinnatus Batfish are Very, very sensitive fish - acclimate very slowly, and keep pristine water quality. They are very picky at feeding time and may take some weaning onto feeding in captivity. Growth is rapid, and unfortunately some of the beautiful coloration is lost as the fish ages. Torn fins tend not to grow back completely, leaving ragged edges - another reason to keep them in a species tank. Adults are found singly or in small groups and occasionally in large schools in some areas. Lives in shallow protected coastal waters to deep, somewhat silty habitats. Often with deep shipwrecks . Juveniles occur singly or in small groups among mangroves and inner sheltered lagoons while adults move out to open waters over sandy areas of deep lagoons, channels, and seaward reefs to a depth of at least 30 m.

Platax Orbiculate (Bat Fish)

The Orbiculate Batfish, is also called the Round Batfish, Orbic Platax, and the Orbic Batfish. A round body of reddish brown and large round fins contribute to this fish's commanding presence. It can potentially grow to an adult size of 22 inches.

It is peaceful and hardy when provided with a deep tank of at least 180 gallons and plenty of unobstructed room to swim. Not a good reef dweller, it will eat many types of sessile invertebrates including corals and anemones. As with all Batfish, the Orbiculate is susceptible to ich.

A varied diet of meaty foods such as shrimp, scallops, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, and frozen herbivore preparations will help the Orbiculate to thrive, especially when fed three times per day.

Amphiprion Sandaracinos (Skunk)

The Pink skunk clown fish is part of a group of clownfish that are all called skunk clown fishes. The name is not hard to understand when you see a skunk clownfish; they have a white band running across the upper part of the entire body. The pink skunk clownfish has, as the name suggests, a pink to yellowish base color on the body. There is a characteristic white "skunk" field on top of the body and a narrow vertical white stripe runs the height of the fish just in front of the pelvic fin.

This clownfish is commonly available in the pet trade and both aquarium bred and wild caught specimens can be found for sale. I recommend that you buy aquarium raised specimen whenever possible to ease the strain on the wild populations. The collecting of clown fish for the pet trade is threatening clownfish populations in some locations. An added bonus for doing the right thing is that aquarium bred specimens are hardier and easier to care fore. Beginners should never buy wild caught specimens.

The Pink skunk fish is a relatively hardy species and an aquarium bred specimens can be a suitable beginner fish for those who want to try to keeping marine fish as it is cheap as well. This species thrives without an anemone which makes it an even better choice for those who want to keep their first saltwater fish.

The Pink skunk clownfish originates from the eastern Indian Ocean and western Pacific Ocean and is common throughout the Indo-Australian Archipelago.

The Pink skunk clownfish is friendly towards most fish except towards other skunk clownfish species and other Pink skunk clownfish. They are rather timid towards other species and should therefore only be kept with friendly fish.

Stenopus Hispidus (Boxing Shrimp)

The Boxing Shrimp catches the eyes of most aquarists with their beautiful coloration and body shape. It has striking red and white bands across its body with fairly long pinchers and extra long white antennae. Combined with its prickly body texture, this peaceful member of the Stenopodidae family brings interest to any marine aquarium. However, most hobbyists praise Stenopus hispidus for its active nature as it scampers around the aquarium in search of food.
Interestingly, members of the Stenopodidae family are known as "Boxing Shrimp" because of the large pinchers on their third set of legs. These pinchers are often held erect and give the Boxing Shrimp the appearance of a boxer ready to fight. Though the Boxing Shrimp can be aggressive towards other Boxing Shrimp and smaller shrimp of different species, most are peaceful towards fish, corals, and invertebrates within your aquarium. Because of its aggressive disposition towards other BoxingShrimp, it should be housed individually or kept as a true mated pair.
Native to the oceans of Indonesia, Stenopus hispidus is perhaps the most widely distributed shrimp in the sea. It usually hangs upside-down in caves or crevices, with only its antennae emerging from the hole. While molting, the Banded Coral Shrimp will often hide from sight for 1-2 days in the rocks of the reef. In the home aquarium, provide sufficient room for the Boxing Shrimp so it can move about freely without its long antennae touching neighboring corals or anemones.
The Boxing Shrimp is relatively hardy and boasts an aquarium-suited length that rarely exceeds 3 inches, 6 inches with the antennae. The male Boxing Shrimp is usually smaller. Breeding the Boxing Shrimp is usually not successful. Larvae generally succumb to filtration and skimming.
Like other invertebrates, the Boxing Shrimp is intolerant of high nitrate or copper levels. Be sure to maintain proper iodine levels in the aquarium to help ensure proper molting. The Banded Coral Shrimp must be acclimated slowly to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock.
In the wild, the Boxing Shrimp is a scavenger. In the home aquarium, it will accept most flaked and frozen foods.

Lysmata Amboinensis (Doctor Shrimp)

The Skunk Cleaner Shrimp is probably the most sought after of the common cleaner shrimps simply because it really does clean fish. They will setup a "cleaning station" on top of a section of the live rock and will wave their antennaes until a larger fish stops by and they commence their cleaning tasks. What exactly are they cleaning you may be wondering? Well, they are looking for small parasites (i.e. marine ich) and dead tissues. They will probe all over the fish, along the gills and sometimes even inside the mouth of the fish removing the parasites and dead tissues.

They should do fine if you want to keep them in multiples but they should not be kept with more aggressive fish species such as Hawkfish, Lionfish and Triggers who may go after them.

Feeding them is relatively easy because they will eat nearly any meaty type of fish food that you put in the tank. You just need to ensure that they are getting their fair share. They may even take flake foods once they realize they can eat flakes.

The Skunk Cleaner shrimp is usually very hardy if they have been acclimated slowly. It's recommended to acclimate them to your aquarium water over a period of an hour or more to avoid pH shock. Don't be alarmed if you look in your tank one day and see what appears to be a dead shrimp. Look around the tank and if you see that the shrimp is indeed still alive, then what you're looking at is the exo-skeleton that they shed every once in a while. You will need to periodically add an iodine supplement to the water because they use iodine in building their new exo-skeleton.

Diodontidae (Balloon Fish)

The Spiny Porcupine Puffer Fish is an odd looking fish that has the obvious ability to inflate with water when threatened. They can also inflate with air if removed from the water and this can damage them internally. To prevent this from happening try to scoop or direct them into a bag when moving them. Try not to use a net to move them.

In the ocean Porcupine Puffer Fish can often be found in small groups but replicating this in the home aquarium can be foolish because of their potential adult size and because they can be one of the dirtier fishes to keep. They can reach 12 inches (30 cm) or more so you'll need to have a larger tank, preferrably 100 gallons (380 liters) or larger. For most hobbyists, keeping multiple Porcupine Puffers would not be a good idea.

For tank mates for your Porcupine Puffer Fish, look into the tangs and wrasses. Smaller fishes and crustaceans may become Porcupine Puffer dinner. So that eliminates them as a choice for the reef tank setup.

Porcupine Puffer Fish eat crustaceans in the wild and will accept most types of marine fish food including frozen, freeze dried, vitamin enriched flakes and live foods. Small pieces of fresh shrimp and clam can be chopped up and given. Give them a variety of foods but mostly meaty items for optimal health.

They can be particularly prone to getting saltwater ich (cryptocaryon) so you will need to take proper pre-cautions and use a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank. It can be a good idea to let them sit in the dealer's tank for a week or two before bringing them home. This will give you them a chance to recuperate from the sometimes long journey to the dealer's tank and it gives you a chance to watch for any sort of outbreaks before you buy them.

Paracanthus Hepatus (Blue Tang Doris)

Along with increasing the popularity of Clownfish, that movie could also be credited with popularizing the Blue Tang as well. "Hey look, it's Dory from finding Nemo!"

The Pacific Blue Tang is a member of the surgeonfishes and is one of the most active swimmers of the available tangs. They will need at least a 75 gallon tank (284 liters), preferrably larger, to allow for adequate swimming space. They can be fairly hardy once acclimated but will not do well in a tank that has not completed the aquarium nitrogen cycle. You will also need highly oxygenated water provided through increased surface agitation (multiple powerheads) and/or the heavy use of air stones.

This surgeonfish has many different common names including - Pacific Blue Tang, Blue Surgeonfish, Palette Surgeonfish, Regal Tang, Hippo Tang, Flag-Tail Surgeonfish and some others. Hopefully this makes you want to use the scientific name when researching and asking about this fish. They are remarkably colored with black, yellow and blue markings and are sure to bring lots of activity to the right tank.

Be careful handling this tang with a net because they can get caught easily in the net. If this happens, gently and slowly move the net back and forth in the tank water. Eventually they should relax their fins and come out of the net.

They will probably not do well with other surgeonfish, especially other Blue Tangs, unless the tank is really large, 100 gallons (379 liters) or larger. If you really have a strong desire to keep multiples, you can try to introduce them all at the same time, but have a back up plan ready. This tang is one of the more peaceful of the bunch and may get picked on by other tangs that are already in the tank. A lot of territorial aggression can be determined not only by the size of the tank but also by the order of introduction into the aquarium.

They primarily feeds on marine algae and having lots of live rock in your tank will provide plenty of grazing opportunities in between meals. Try to give your Blue Tang a varied diet and supplement their diet with marine seaweed using a veggie clip to prevent the colors from fading in this fish.

This tang should be relatively disease resistant once acclimated but you still need to take proper pre-cautions and use a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank. Keep them in the hospital tank for two weeks or so and watch for obvious saltwater diseases, such as marine ich.

Premnas Biaculeatus (Maroon)

The Maroon Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus) has a maroon body with 3 vertical white stripes or lines on its body. There is also a gold stripe variety that comes from Sumatra and the gold stripe is usually a little more expensive. This fish may be one of the most aggressive of the clownfishes. They will not get along well with any other clownfish in the same tank unless they are a mated pair. Even hobbyists keeping them in very large aquariums have reported aggression amongst the maroon clown fish and the other clowns in their tank. They do have the same characteristic swimming style as other clowns and are really interesting to watch.

This is reportedly one of the easier marine fish to breed and they have been successfully breeding in home tanks even without a host anemone present. This is good to know because their host anemone (E. quadricolor) requires intense aquarium lighting (metal halides) to be kept alive for prolonged periods of time. Many hobbyists can't afford the metal halides needed for the anemone but should be able to afford a maroon clown which can range anywhere from $15 - $25 USD.

Getting them to eat standard aquarium fish foods shouldn't pose a problem because they are fairly good eaters. In the wild they eat zooplankton and sometimes algae. Give them a nice variety of marine fish foods such as vitamin enriched flakes, frozen marine preparations and every once in a while, live foods.

Unfortunately, Maroon Clownfish are not all that saltwater fish disease resistant and you will need to use a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank. Keep them in the qt tank for two weeks or so and watch for obvious saltwater diseases, like marine ich. Be especially careful with any medications you use with this fish. They will not tolerate high levels of copper based medications!

We have a maroon clown fish pair that hosts with a bubble tip anemone. At feeding time, they will bring back food (usually flake fish food) to the anemone. If you have shrimp, such as the cleaner shrimp, be advised that these shrimp are good at taking food from the anemone. The clownfish would bring the food to the anemone and then the shrimp would scamper up into the anemone and remove the food! When this happens we drop in a few more flakes for the clowns to give to their host anemone. It's very cool to watch the clownfish feeding their anemone.

Amphiprion Ocellaris (Nemo)

The Clownfish is probably the most popular saltwater fish species today and one of the reasons that many people want to get into the saltwater hobby. The Disney movie Finding Nemo probably has a lot to do with the incredible popularity of this fish. Clownfish have a somewhat unique way of swimming. They don't swim like other fish, they waddle and it kind of reminds you of a happy dog when it comes up to greet you. The orange, white and black coloration on the Ocellaris is strikingly beautiful. The Ocellaris Clown is often confused with the True Percula Clownfish because the two species look very similar. The Ocellaris has very thin black bands around the white stripes whereas the True Percula has much wider black bands on the white stripes. They will take almost every type of marine food available and can be very easy to keep.

Many believe that you can't keep a clown fish without their host anemone. This is not true. You can keep them without their host anemone and many have reported success with breeding them even without having their host anemone present. Because many breeders are having success breeding them, tank raised clowns are readily available. In fact, you are generally much better off buying a tank raised clown than a wild one because the tank raised fish tend to have better survival rates and should acclimate more quickly. Tank raised clowns usually cost slightly more than the wild ones but if they adapt better and live longer, it's worth it.

The host anemones that are found in their natural environment of the clownfish can be difficult to care for in captivity and are not recommended for the saltwater novice. Very high output aquarium lighting such as metal halides is often required.

Chrysiptera Parasema (Yellow Tailed Blue Damsel)

The Yellowtail Blue Damselfish is sometimes confused with the Azure Damselfish (Chrysiptera hemicyanea) because they do look very similar. The Chrysiptera hemicyanea has more yellow on its body than the Chrysiptera parasema, which just has the yellow on its tail. This damsel is usually better kept in groups of 3 or more because they can become very territorial if kept singly. This is probably one of the least aggressive of all the damsels, but can still be aggressive nonetheless. Try putting your arm in the tank to perform tank maintenance and you'll see what we're talking about.

The Yellowtail Damselfish is particularly hardy and many hobbyists will use them to cycle a new tank. Using them to cycle your tank is not recommended because it is very cruel to the fish. A better, more humane way to cycle your saltwater tank would be to use live rock. As always, do not keep them with fish large enough to view them as a nice snack.

Yellowtail Blue Damsel will go after most fish food including vitamin enriched flake food, frozen, freeze dried and live foods.