Chrysiptera Cyanea (Blue Devil Damsel)

The Blue Damselfish, also known as the Blue Devil Damselfish, is an extremely popular marine fish because it is readily available and because it is very hardy. Although we don't recommend it, many hobbyists use this fish to cycle new saltwater tanks. There are better, more humane ways to cycle a tank such as using live rock to cycle your saltwater aquarium.
They get the nick name Blue Devil because of their personality. They can be very belligerent with other fish in the tank, especially new arrivals. They are very bold and can hold their own with larger fish and may even go after your hand if it approaches their territory. They didn't get the memo about them only being a few inches in size. We'll call it the mighty mouse syndrome.
As mentioned previously, Blue Damsel fish will develop their own territory in the tank. Having live rock in your aquarium will help make them comfortable and it will provide them with hiding places. You can get away with keeping multiple Blue Damselfish in the same tank if you introduce them at the same time. Because of their "anger management" issues it is a good idea to introduce them last into your setup.
Blue Damselfish are not very picky when it comes to fish food and should accept most foods that you give them. Try to give them a varied diet of live, frozen, freeze-dried and vitamin-enriched flake foods.
They seem to be very resistant to most saltwater fish disease but you still need to take the proper pre-cautions and use a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank. After they've been in quarantine for two weeks or so and you notice no signs of illness you can acclimate them into your display tank.

Gomphosus Varius (Bird Wrasse)

The most unique aspect about the Bird Wrasse is its elongated beak which is used to catch long, skinny prey and hold it captive while breaking it up into bite-size pieces. The female is brownish black, and the male is variations of green. For this reason the male is often called the Green Bird Wrasse, and the female, the Black or Brown Bird Wrasse.
A 125 gallon or larger aquarium with large amounts of live rock which furnish food and hiding places provides a good environment. Because the Bird Wrasse is a "jumper," a tight-fitting lid on the tank is necessary. If a pair of Bird Wrasse are to be included in a tank, the female should be introduced first.
The Bird Wrasse diet should include vitamin enriched frozen mysis shrimp, vitamin enriched frozen brine shrimp, and other meaty foods along with a high quality marine flake and marine pellet food.

Zanclus Canescens (Moorish Idol)

This is the infamous Moorish Idol. Here we present one of the most difficult species of fish to keep and raise in captivity. Their popularity increased with the release of the kid's movie "Finding Nemo" but as most hobbyists soon found out, this saltwater fish is very tough to acclimate and keep. Long term survivability of this species in home aquariums is rare.
This fish is colored with white, yellow and black vertical body markings. They are frequently found schooling along the reef and provided that you have a large enough tank, you may be able to keep multiples in your saltwater aquarium.
It is a very finicky eater and to make matters worse, their protruding mouths are sometimes damaged during collection and transport. Another good reason to use the quarantine tank when you first get them is to get them eating without any competition. In the ocean they graze on marine algea and sponges. Having copious amounts of live rock in your tank will provide grazing opportunities in between meals. Try to give them a varied diet of live or frozen marine fish foods.
They can come down with most saltwater fish diseases especially if you're having difficulty getting them to eat. Therefore, use of a quarantine tank with this fish is a must. Keep them in quarantine for at least a few weeks, but at least as long as it takes for them to start eating.
They are true beauties though and if you consider yourself an expert in marine aquarium keeping you may want to try this elegant and delicate fish. Don't cut any corners with these fish and be sure to take your time while acclimating them to your tank. Give them optimal water conditions and please, don't even think about adding them to anything but an established tank after the recommended quarantine period. For most hobbyists, the Moorish Idol is one fish that is best left on the reef for now.

Acanthurus Leucosternon (Powder Blue Tang)

A true beauty, The Powder Blue Tang is sought after by most saltwater aquarium keepers due to it's remarkable colors. From the yellow dorsal fin to its dark colored face and powder blue body, this fish is something to behold. Be prepared to spend some serious jack on this fish though. They usually run anywhere from $60 to over $100 depending on the size of the fish. As well as being beautiful, they are also quite finicky and can be very difficult to keep for even the advanced saltwater aquarium keepers.
They are notorious for getting ich (cryptocaryon) and velvet usually due to the fact that they don't transport well. Let them sit in the dealers tank for several weeks and ask to watch them eat before laying down your hard earned cash for one of these tangs. Inspect them closely for any signs of ich or velvet and make sure they are actively swimming.
If all goes well at the fish store, once you bring them home you'll want to slowly drip acclimate them to your quarantine tank's water. It should go without saying that a quarantine is not optional with this fish. Tangs in general and the Powder Blue Tang especially are susceptible to marine ich, which means that it's a good idea to house your new fish in a quarantine tank for several weeks before introducing them into your display tank. It can be a really good idea to get some cleaner shrimps too. The skunk cleaner shrimp does a good job.
The may be finicky when it comes to food and you'll want to provide plenty of algae grazing opportunities and also supplement their diet with dried algae using a veggie clip. Leave the dried seaweed in the tank for prolonged periods when they are first introduced. They might accept flakes and pellets and should go after frozen and live foods. We feel that live rock is absolutely needed when keeping this fish because they like to pick at algae on a nearly continuous basis during the daytime hours. It may also be a good idea to let some algae grow on one of the side panels of the tank, just in case.
Like all Tangs, the Powder Blue needs highly oxygenated water. You can achieve this using multiple power heads. Watch the tank temperature though and remove a powerhead if the aquarium water temperature gets too high. They will also appreciate high water flow throughout the aquarium and they need a large tank to allow for large swimming lanes. They are quite fast swimmers.
This can be a very difficult fish to keep and we strongly urge you to research this fish fully before acquiring one. We would recommend this fish only to advanced saltwater hobbyists with a large tank that is well established and stocked with plenty of live rock, high aeration and high water flows.

Chaetodon Baronessa (Triangular Butterfly Fish)

The Chevron Butterflyfish is one of the more elongate butterflyfish in the genus. Though it is occasionally available and is reasonably priced, it is one of the most difficult butterflyfish to keep in a captive environment. In their natural environment they are obligatory coral eaters, meaning this is where they get all of their nutrition. This specialized diet is difficult to reproduce in the aquarium and though some will accept substitute foods such as brine and mysid shrimps, they will subsist only for a short period of time without their necessary nutrients.
Fortunately there are species that are quite similar, and some of these are easier to keep. Be sure to learn about any butterflyfish species that you are considering. Find out if it can be maintained in captivity and what its needs are.
According to Burgess (1978) this species is closely allied to the similarly colored chevrons including the Asian Butterflyfish C. argentatus, Seychelles Butterflyfish C. madagaskariensis, Merten's Butterflyfish C. mertenssii, Philippine Chevron Butterflyfish C. xanthurus and Eritrean Butterflyfish C. paucifasciatus (subgenus Rhombochaetodon). It is also closely allied with those having deeper bodies including the Eastern Triangular Butterflyfish C. baronessa, Hooded Butterflyfish C. larvatus, and Triangle Butterflyfish C. triangulum (subgenus Gonochaetodon).

Chaetodon Auriga (Threadfin Butterfly Fish)

The Auriga Butterflyfish, also known as the Threadfin Butterflyfish, is one of the more popular and readily available butterflyfish. Generally a hardy species, in the wild it is found on inner and outer reef slopes. As with many fish, the Threadfin Butterfly's color and markings can vary with the region of origin. Red Sea specimens tend to lose the eyespot (false eye to confuse predators) on the dorsal fin.
The Auriga Butterflyfish is quite shy and should be provided multiple hiding places. It is safe to keep it in a live rock-only tank, although it will pick at the rock.
The Auriga Butterflyfish's diet should primarily consist of plankton frozen, freeze-dried, fresh or flake food is readily accepted. Also provide regular vegetable food source and vitamin-boosting supplements.

Heniochus Acuminatus (Longfin Banner Fish)

The Heniochus species are often lumped in with the Buttefly fishes but the Heniochus species are usually much easier to care for than most of the butterfly species. We too have grouped them in with the butterfly species for convenience. The Longfin Bannerfish is also known as the "Poor Man's Moorish Idol" since it sort of resembles the Moorish Idol but the bannerfish is better suited to aquarium life. They are striped white and black with yellow dorsal and caudal fins along with the signature long white banner fin that can extend out past the caudal fin (tail fin). The body shape of this fish reminds us a little of the freshwater angelfish.
The Heniochus acuminatus and the Heniochus diphreutes are extremely similar looking and it can be difficult to determine the difference in adolescents. They H. diphreutes has more of a stub mouth and a more rounded anal fin. In the H. acuminatus the anal fin forms more of an angle at the tip.
It is possible to keep multiples in the same tank. In the ocean they form small schools and pairs. They do need a larger tank when keeping multiples given their adult size and their need for adequate swimming space. They are quite passive and rarely bother tank mates. They may get bullied by larger fish species such as tangs and triggers.
Assuming that you've picked out a good specimen with no visible signs of illness or disease, they should easily acclimate to your tank. They are not at all picky (usually) about the foods they are given and should eat most fish foods presented to them. Get and use a good flake food and supplement with fresh and frozen foods. If you do get one that is finicky, try the frozen brine shrimp cubes (thawed first) and slowly get them on flakes. The live rock in your tank can provide places of shelter and can also be a food source that the Longfin Bannerfish may pick at in between meals

Chelmon Rostratus (Copper Banded Butterfly Fish)

The Copperbanded Butterfly Fish is one of the more difficult marine fish to keep in the home aquarium and is definitely not recommended for a saltwater beginner. Only introduce one to a long established tank (6 months or more) with peaceful tank mates. If you have a new tank and it is still going through the aquarium nitrogen cycle, you can kiss this baby good bye. Copperband Butterfly Fish are very delicate and it can be very difficult to get them eating. You may need to experiment with various live foods, including brine and mysis shrimp. Some hobbyists have reported success using fresh clams on the half shell placed in the bottom of the tank to get them to start eating.
Physically, the Copperbanded Butterfly Fish is a very beautiful white with copper bands running vertically on the sides of the body. They have a "false eye" towards the back of the dorsal fin and can get up to about 8 inches (20 cm). They should play nicely with other, peaceful tank mates but will not tolerate other butterfly fish in the same tank.
Since they are so delicate they come down with the typical saltwater fish diseases and you need to take proper pre-cautions by using a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank. Take your time while acclimating them to the tank. Keep your Copperbanded Butterflyfish in the hospital tank for two weeks or so and watch for obvious saltwater diseases, like marine ich. This will also give them time to recuperate from transport and it may be easier to get your Copperbanded Butterfly eating without competition from other tank mates.

Pomacentrus Amboinensis (Yellow Damsel)

The Yellow Damselfish, also known as the Golden Damselfish, has lemon yellow coloring highlighted by upper and lower racing stripes, sometimes of neon blue. As it matures, the colors will fade and it will become more aggressive.

The Yellow Damselfish species is easily recognised by the golden-yellow colour on the body and the small blue to purple spots that can be found on the face around the eyes and mouth. It can be found living on coral reefs in association with gorgonian fans and black coral trees as it shelters in their branches for protection. They are generally seen to be solitary however they may be encountered in small aggregations feeding on zooplankton a few metres above the bottom. It is generally found at depths from 10 to 45 metres. The Yellow Damselfish grows to a maximum length of approximately 12cm.

Like other damselfish, the Yellow Damselfish are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Basslets, Blennies, Boxfish, Clownfish, Goatfish, Gobies, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Tangs & Surgeons and Wrasse.

The Yellow Damselfish are not compatible with Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

The Yellow Damselfish can be kept in temperatures between 72 and 78 degrees. The pH should be 8.4, with specific gravity between 1.020 and 1.025 unless there are invertebrates in the aquarium in which case the lower limit should be 1.022. Water quality should remain high.

Chaetodon Falcula (Saddled Butterfly)

The Falcula Butterflyfish, also known as the Sickle Butterflyfish, is mostly white becoming yellow dorsally. It has a series of narrow black stripes on its sides, two patches of black on the dorsal side, and a black eye band.

A 100 gallon or larger fish-only aquarium with other butterflyfish is a good environment. The Falcula Butterflyfish will eat anemones, hard corals, and mushroom anemones causing problems in a reef aquarium.

It should be fed a variety of meaty foods, crustacean flesh, mysid shrimp, frozen preparations, with an occasional anemone as a treat.

Amphiprion Clarkii (Clarkii)

The Clarkii clownfish is one of the hardiest and friendliest clownfish species available in the aquarium trade. You can usually find both tank bred and wild caught specimens in the trade. Tank breed specimens are to be preferred if you have the choice as they are hardier and don't strain the wild populations. The Clarkii clownfish is the most commonly bred clownfish in the USA. It is native to the Indo Pacific Ocean.

The Clarkii clownfish has a higher body than many other species of clownfish. The body is yellow to orange with vertical white stripes.

Like most other clownfish the Clarkii clownfish doesn't need to be kept with an anemone in the aquarium, but prefers having one. The Clarkii clownfish accepts a long row of different anemones including Sebae anemone (hence it´s other name Sebae Clownfish), carpet anemones, bubble tip anemones and long tentacle anemones. It usually also accepts corals as hosts.

This species is reef safe and more than one Clarkii clownfish can be kept in the same aquarium. The Clarkii clownfish can however be aggressive toward other clownish. Clarkii clownfish is best kept with other small and friendly reef safe fish and invertebrates. Do not keep with small shrimps as they might get eaten.

Amphiprion Frenatus (Tomato)

The Tomato Clownfish is one of 27 known Clownfish species. Its scientific name is Amphiprion frenatus and it is also commonly known as Tomato Anemonefish. The Tomato Clowfish belongs to the subfamily Amphiprioninae in the family Pomacentridae. Clownfish co-exists with anemones in the wild and can shelter from predators near the anemone without being stung or eaten. All the clownfish species are very colourful and they are immediately spotted and subsequently eaten by other fish if they leave their protecting anemone. The female Tomato Clownfish is significantly bigger than the male Tomato Clownfish and is blackish on the sides of the body, while the snout, belly and breast are red. The male is without this blackish colouration; his entire body is red and he has one single white head bar. A young Tomato Clownfish has 2-3 white bars.

Wild Tomato Clownfish is found in the Western Pacific. They are popular in salt water reef aquariums and will typically reach a length up to 5.5 inches. You will need at least a 20 gallon aquarium to house your Tomato Clownfish in, and the aquarium must be filled with lots of hiding places. Live rock growth is also advisable, since the Tomato Clownfish likes to graze. Wild Tomato Clownfish will try to find an anemone belonging to the species Heteractis crispa or Entacmaea quadricolor. Anemones can be quite difficult to keep alive in the aquarium, and your Tomato Clownfish will survive without one since you can keep the aquarium free from predators. If you give your Tomato Clownfish a new anemone from a new species, it will take several days before the fish has grown accustomed to the anemone. If you give your Tomato Clownfish a new anemone from the same species as the fish is already familiar with, no such adjustment period will be required. Keep in mind that some anemone species are unsuitable for Clownfish and will sting and injure the fish.

Tomato Clownfish can show some aggressive behaviours when it reaches maturity, especially towards other Clownfish. It is recommended to keep this fish alone or in mated couples. The Tomato Clownfish is an omnivore opportunist and will usually show a healthy appetite when kept in an aquarium. Provide your Tomato Clownfish with a varied and nutritious diet that includes meaty food types as well as some algae or algae based food. A high quality flake food designed for omnivore fish can be a good base. Feed your Tomato Clownfish 2-3 times a day.

Dascyllus Aruanus (Humbug Damsel)

The Three Striped Damselfish, also known as the 3-Stripe Damselfish, White-tailed Damselfish, or Humbug Dascyllus, is a popular fish. Three bold black bands are separated by two white bands with a smaller bar of white to offset the tail.

A 30 gallon or larger aquarium is suitable with plenty of hiding places. Due to its aggressive behavior as an adult, it will do well with other moderately aggressive fish in a community tank. It will not harm invertebrates or disturb the tank setting.

It will need a diet of meaty items, herbivore preparations, and flaked foods.

Coris Gaimard Africana (Red Coris)

The Red Coris, also known as the Clown Wrasse, Red Labrid, or Yellowtail Coris, can be found on almost every reef in the Indo-Pacific and Hawaiian Region, and extends all the way into the Red Sea. Adult specimens in the wild can easily grow to a foot, but in an aquarium, they rarely exceed 6-8 inches. The juvenile and adult appearances vary greatly. As a youth, the body color is orange with white tiger stripes or spots across the back. The stripes and fins are outlined in black. In adulthood, the body takes on a speckled blue coloration, the fins are decorated with yellows, reds, and blues, and the face is orange with green stripes. The male has a light green stripe on the body, just above the anal fin.

The Red Coris requires a 100 gallon or larger aquarium with a sandy bottom into which it will burrow to sleep, or if it is threatened. Do not attempt to keep the Red Coris on crushed coral or similar substrate as they have a poor survival rate on such substrates. When very small, Red Coris are safe with almost any fish that will not eat them, but as they grow, they can become destructive. They should not be kept with invertebrates.

The Red Coris feeds mostly on shelled mollusks in the wild including hermit crabs, urchins, crabs, and occasionally tunicates. Aquarium specimens should have meaty items, vitamin-enriched shrimp, and brine shrimp three times daily.

Siganidae (Rabbit Fish)

The Rabbitfishes that we will focus on in this article are found in the family Siganidae in the order Perciformes. The fishes in the order Chimaeriformes are also known as rabbitfishes, but this article is not about them.

The rabbitfishes of the family Siganidae are called rabbitfishes since their mouth look a bit like the nose and mouth of a rabbit. Rabbitfishes have large dark eyes and well-developed dorsal and anal fin spines. The spines are venomous so you have to be careful when handling a rabbitfish. The largest rabbit fishes can be up to 40 cm (almost 16 inches) in length. All species of rabbitfish are pelagic spawners.

There are currently 25 described species of rabbitfish and some of them have been successfully kept in marine aquariums. The colourful ones are also the most popular ones in the aquarium trade. The rabbitfish is known for its peaceful temperament. Some form schools while others prefer a more solitary life among the corals. It is important to research the preferences of your particular species before your purchase rabbitfish for your aquarium.

Rabbitfish are found in saltwater and brackish water. They inhabit shallow lagoons in the Indo-Pacific and in the eastern parts of the Mediterranean. They are day active and rests during the dark hours. Just like a rabbit, the rabbit fish is an herbivore creature. Instead of carrots, it feeds on benthic algae. It is important to provide your rabbitfish with a varied diet in the aquarium, e.g. algae based foods combined with various fresh vegetables. Natural algae growth is a big plus since it allows the rabbitfish to carry out its natural behaviour.

Platax Pinnatus (Long Fin Bat Fish)

Pinnatus Batfish are darkish brown with bright orange pin striping outlining its entire body. They have a narrow vertical band behind the eye and a wider band behind the pectoral fin, both of which become periodically translucent. It is said that in the wild they can reach a length of three feet. This species is secretive in the wild, found hiding in wrecks and other dark spots, and should be left there. Requires experienced hobbyist. Definitely one of the most beautiful species when young, the Pinnatus Batfish also turns to a much duller coloration as an adult. This species is very difficult to acclimate to a captive diet, and usually does not do well in captivity at all. If one purchases this species it is also recommended to be kept in a peaceful community aquarium.

Pinnatus Batfish are Very, very sensitive fish - acclimate very slowly, and keep pristine water quality. They are very picky at feeding time and may take some weaning onto feeding in captivity. Growth is rapid, and unfortunately some of the beautiful coloration is lost as the fish ages. Torn fins tend not to grow back completely, leaving ragged edges - another reason to keep them in a species tank. Adults are found singly or in small groups and occasionally in large schools in some areas. Lives in shallow protected coastal waters to deep, somewhat silty habitats. Often with deep shipwrecks . Juveniles occur singly or in small groups among mangroves and inner sheltered lagoons while adults move out to open waters over sandy areas of deep lagoons, channels, and seaward reefs to a depth of at least 30 m.

Platax Orbiculate (Bat Fish)

The Orbiculate Batfish, is also called the Round Batfish, Orbic Platax, and the Orbic Batfish. A round body of reddish brown and large round fins contribute to this fish's commanding presence. It can potentially grow to an adult size of 22 inches.

It is peaceful and hardy when provided with a deep tank of at least 180 gallons and plenty of unobstructed room to swim. Not a good reef dweller, it will eat many types of sessile invertebrates including corals and anemones. As with all Batfish, the Orbiculate is susceptible to ich.

A varied diet of meaty foods such as shrimp, scallops, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, and frozen herbivore preparations will help the Orbiculate to thrive, especially when fed three times per day.

Amphiprion Sandaracinos (Skunk)

The Pink skunk clown fish is part of a group of clownfish that are all called skunk clown fishes. The name is not hard to understand when you see a skunk clownfish; they have a white band running across the upper part of the entire body. The pink skunk clownfish has, as the name suggests, a pink to yellowish base color on the body. There is a characteristic white "skunk" field on top of the body and a narrow vertical white stripe runs the height of the fish just in front of the pelvic fin.

This clownfish is commonly available in the pet trade and both aquarium bred and wild caught specimens can be found for sale. I recommend that you buy aquarium raised specimen whenever possible to ease the strain on the wild populations. The collecting of clown fish for the pet trade is threatening clownfish populations in some locations. An added bonus for doing the right thing is that aquarium bred specimens are hardier and easier to care fore. Beginners should never buy wild caught specimens.

The Pink skunk fish is a relatively hardy species and an aquarium bred specimens can be a suitable beginner fish for those who want to try to keeping marine fish as it is cheap as well. This species thrives without an anemone which makes it an even better choice for those who want to keep their first saltwater fish.

The Pink skunk clownfish originates from the eastern Indian Ocean and western Pacific Ocean and is common throughout the Indo-Australian Archipelago.

The Pink skunk clownfish is friendly towards most fish except towards other skunk clownfish species and other Pink skunk clownfish. They are rather timid towards other species and should therefore only be kept with friendly fish.

Stenopus Hispidus (Boxing Shrimp)

The Boxing Shrimp catches the eyes of most aquarists with their beautiful coloration and body shape. It has striking red and white bands across its body with fairly long pinchers and extra long white antennae. Combined with its prickly body texture, this peaceful member of the Stenopodidae family brings interest to any marine aquarium. However, most hobbyists praise Stenopus hispidus for its active nature as it scampers around the aquarium in search of food.
Interestingly, members of the Stenopodidae family are known as "Boxing Shrimp" because of the large pinchers on their third set of legs. These pinchers are often held erect and give the Boxing Shrimp the appearance of a boxer ready to fight. Though the Boxing Shrimp can be aggressive towards other Boxing Shrimp and smaller shrimp of different species, most are peaceful towards fish, corals, and invertebrates within your aquarium. Because of its aggressive disposition towards other BoxingShrimp, it should be housed individually or kept as a true mated pair.
Native to the oceans of Indonesia, Stenopus hispidus is perhaps the most widely distributed shrimp in the sea. It usually hangs upside-down in caves or crevices, with only its antennae emerging from the hole. While molting, the Banded Coral Shrimp will often hide from sight for 1-2 days in the rocks of the reef. In the home aquarium, provide sufficient room for the Boxing Shrimp so it can move about freely without its long antennae touching neighboring corals or anemones.
The Boxing Shrimp is relatively hardy and boasts an aquarium-suited length that rarely exceeds 3 inches, 6 inches with the antennae. The male Boxing Shrimp is usually smaller. Breeding the Boxing Shrimp is usually not successful. Larvae generally succumb to filtration and skimming.
Like other invertebrates, the Boxing Shrimp is intolerant of high nitrate or copper levels. Be sure to maintain proper iodine levels in the aquarium to help ensure proper molting. The Banded Coral Shrimp must be acclimated slowly to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock.
In the wild, the Boxing Shrimp is a scavenger. In the home aquarium, it will accept most flaked and frozen foods.